18/4/2024
Kultur im Wirtshaus
Editorial
A dream of a tavern
Chefs, waiters, hosts and all guests provide answers and insights into how they see the tavern and dream about it.
Text:
friendship.is

What should definitely be on the menu in a tavern? And is excess part of it? Is a healthy work-life balance even possible in the catering industry? And what would it actually be like — a world without a tavern?

SOPHIE OR Guest and host, head of Trumer Tourism/ Salzburg

What does your dream tavern look like?

Full. My dream tavern is full of happy people who love to go to the tavern.

What would a world without taverns be like?

It's really sad. The tavern is a meeting place that is very important in society.

Do you still talk about a tavern when the menu is meatless?

Yes I believe that in the future we can simply take other paths to reach people again. And I'd like that to be meatless. Even though I like to eat roast pork myself!

EMANUEL MOOSBRUGGER, Host and guest, owner of Biohotel Schwanen/Vorarlberg

Is a healthy work-life balance even possible in the restaurant?

Yes, I do think that is possible. If I start from myself: My work-life balance is very good. For me, work means life and I don't call it work, so it is joy and fun. For my employees, it is important to me that the work-life balance is right, i.e. that work schedules, working hours, etc. fit.

Is a 30-hour week in the catering industry conceivable?

In principle, yes. I have a lot of employees who work two to three days or just in the morning. So depending on your desire and time, and how it is possible. In general, this of course means a definite additional effort in terms of employee costs — that is logical and obvious. But why not!

What does your dream tavern look like?

Full and lively, lots of conversations and lots and lots of people laughing. That would be my interpretation of it.

STEFAN SIGL, Chef and guest/Salzburg

What must be on the menu in a tavern?

Foods that reflect chefs or innkeepers and show a connection to the region and customs. Tradition should be the cornerstone on which we build, even with modern influence.

What does your dream tavern look like?

Regular guests are certainly important. The regular guest is seen as an extended family. Just like anyone who is interested in what you do.

Is a healthy work-life balance even possible in the catering industry?

That depends on what you mean by that. Many see catering as just as a hobby as a job. It takes a lot of passion to see some hours perhaps not as a duty but as a pleasure.

LUKE KNOLL, Producer and guest, managing director at Knollmühle GmbH/Upper Austria

What could make gastronomy more interesting again as a place to work?

As a guest, I find a tavern incredibly interesting as a place to work. In fairness: I myself am not behind the bar, or only voluntarily.

I think we're doing too well. Perhaps Austria is sometimes so comfortable — whether due to corona or something else — that it needs an external kick to remember that it is something nice when you can stand, laugh, discuss, cry together with people in a room and that is not a burden, but actually something beautiful and an opportunity.

Is excess part of it?

I'm not a good example. Yes

What does your dream tavern look like?

I now answer as a traditionalist: Old, in a town center, it has already seen a lot, the outer structure is almost unchanged, the people who are inside move with the times. I find that incredibly beautiful.

NOAH SCHEIRING, Waiter and guest/Tyrol

What could make gastronomy more interesting again as a place to work?

The catering industry needs changes towards part-time work. The staff is overworked very often. And payment, especially from younger people, is also being pushed down. As a student, I notice this very strongly: You are registered slightly, but not paid out with a full tip as before. In any case, fair wages and a reduction in working hours are needed.

Is excess to the tavern part of it?

I think so. I think excess is partly important in order to escape from everyday life. The tavern is also a place where people meet to talk about their problems or simply to have someone to talk to: a place where people exchange ideas. If you consume healthily and know how to behave, you can also drink a beer or two. Therefore: Yes, excess is also part of it. But in any case, in the right measure.

What does your dream tavern look like?

My dream tavern already existed in my neighboring town, but unfortunately it was locked. But yes, in my opinion, you don't need an insane number of dishes, you don't need beautiful furniture or anything else, but I think it's very important to keep yourself a little smaller and try to bring regionality and quality to people. And then, I think, people are also willing to accept the price you pay for a real schnitzel these days.

ALAN BAYER, Host and guest, Studio Schmaus/Berlin

What does the tavern need?

The tavern should still be a place of comfort and conviviality. And perhaps we should try again to stick more to such qualities and to live up to them again. Because sitting together in a nice atmosphere with people you love is really a damn nice thing, and if you can create a place like that, then you've already done almost everything right.

What absolutely must be on the menu in this tavern?

Food that makes you feel good. I'm always looking forward to a great schnitzel, but it just has to be really nice and made with good products.

What could make gastronomy more interesting again as a place to work?

So I find the solidarity and this team structure, which may result when everything fits, magical. And oh! It's a crazy atmosphere and a crazy area to work in. Perhaps we should therefore simply work on humanity again, in terms of working hours and dealing with each other. But when it works, it can really be a beautiful, magical place.

ISABELLA KUNSTOVNY, former waitress, now exclusively a guest/Vienna

What does your dream tavern look like?

The tavern should definitely be homey. With a loving host or landlady who does it with passion and lots of people sitting inside.

Can you imagine a world without taverns?

No, not really because I particularly love Austrian cuisine. I think there are well-made classics in a tavern, even rethought. A world without them would be sad.

Do you still talk about a tavern when the menu is meatless?

In my opinion, yes! Tavern does not always mean meat, but tavern means that there is home cooking, and home cooking is not just meat. And dumplings: Nothing beats dumplings anyway!

Photo gallery © Ian Ehm (opener) and Manuel Peric (portraits) | friendship.is